Hoodie Fabric Guide: Fleece vs French Terry and Which GSM to Choose

The fabric is the first thing a customer notices when they pick up a hoodie: how heavy it feels, how soft it is on the inside and how it holds its shape. Before you think about prints or labels, three decisions shape your hoodie: the fabric family, the weight and the composition.

The two main hoodie fabrics

Fleece (3-thread)

Fleece is the classic sweatshirt fabric: a thick knit with a smooth face and, usually, a brushed back that feels soft and fluffy. It is warm, holds its shape well and suits autumn and winter collections. Most fleece hoodies are between 280 and 450 gsm. Unbrushed versions also exist if you want the weight without the fluffy inside.

French terry (2-thread, loopback)

French terry has the same smooth face, but the back is made of small loops instead of brushed fibers. It is lighter, around 220 to 320 gsm, breathes better and drapes a little more. It is the go-to fabric for spring and summer sweatshirts, joggers, shorts and garment-dyed pieces.

• Warmth: fleece is clearly warmer; French terry is better for layering and warmer months.
• Look: fleece looks fuller and more structured; French terry looks cleaner and slightly more relaxed.
• Feel: brushed fleece is soft and fluffy inside; French terry feels smooth with a light texture.

Which weight (gsm) should you choose?

GSM means grams per square metre: the weight of the fabric. The same hoodie looks and feels very different at a different weight.

• Around 250–300 gsm: light hoodies for spring and summer or layering, usually French terry.
• Around 300–350 gsm: an everyday hoodie that works most of the year.
• Around 350–450 gsm: heavyweight hoodies with a structured, premium streetwear look, and the warmest option.

Heavier is not always better. A heavier fabric uses more yarn, so it costs more per piece, and it makes your parcels heavier to ship. Choose the weight your customers will actually wear, and your price point can carry.

100% cotton, a blend or organic cotton?

• 100% cotton feels natural and breathes well, but it can shrink more. Ask for compacted or pre-shrunk fabric.
• Cotton and polyester blends shrink less, keep their shape and color well and often cost less, but feel less natural.
• Organic cotton fleece is available from certified fabric suppliers. If it isn't in stock and has to be made specially, minimums are higher.

Details that change the result

• Rib cuffs and hem: usually cotton with elastane, in the same color or a contrast.
• The hood: single layer, or double layer for a fuller, more premium hood.
• Garment dye and washes: they soften the fabric and give a vintage color, but change the size slightly, so this is planned in the pattern.
• Prints and embroidery: screen printing, puff print and embroidery all work well on fleece and French terry.

How to choose in practice

1. Decide the season and the feel you want: warm and fluffy, or light and clean.
2. Choose a weight range that fits your price point.
3. Choose the composition: 100% cotton, a blend or organic cotton.
4. If you have a hoodie you love, use it as a reference: its care label shows the composition, and the garment itself shows the weight and construction.
5. Approve the fabric, fit and print on a sample before production.

See the styles and fabrics we work with on our hoodie and sweatshirt production page, compare fabrics in our fabric guide, or put your design on paper with our free tech pack builder.

Frequently asked questions

Is sweatshirt fleece the same as polar fleece?

No. Sweatshirt fleece is a cotton or cotton-blend knit, usually brushed on the inside only. Polar fleece is a polyester fabric that is fluffy on both sides and is used for fleece jackets and mid-layers.

Will my hoodies shrink?

Cotton can shrink a few percent in the first washes. Compacted or pre-shrunk fabric reduces it, and if the hoodies are garment-dyed or washed, the shrinkage is planned in the pattern.

What is the minimum order for hoodies?

With a stock fabric, the minimum per design and color is what one roll of fabric yields, which depends on the style. For new brands we can sometimes go lower after reviewing the design, and you can always start with a single sample.