Basic / regular t-shirt
Soft, breathable and durable in everyday washing. 160–180 gsm is the most common range.
- Recommended:
- Single jersey, Interlock, Viscose / modal jersey
- Weight:
- 150–200 gsm
- Avoid:
- Rib knit, Fleece (3-thread)
Guide
Fabric guide: which fabric for which garment
The fabric decides how your garment looks, fits and feels, and a large part of its price. Use this guide to find the right fabric family and weight for your product, then see what each fabric does well and where it falls short.
Three things to decide first
01
Knit or woven
Knits (jersey, rib, fleece) are made of loops: they stretch and feel soft, like a t-shirt. Wovens (poplin, twill, denim) are made of crossing threads: they hold their shape and don't stretch unless elastane is added, like a shirt or jeans.
02
Weight (gsm)
Grams per square metre. A light summer t-shirt is around 140–160 gsm, a heavyweight streetwear tee 240–280 gsm, a winter hoodie 320–400 gsm. The same fabric family can look and feel very different at another weight.
03
Stretch and drape
Fitted styles need stretch and recovery; flowy styles need drape; structured styles need body. Decide which your design needs before choosing the fabric.
Choose by garment
Recommended fabrics are listed best first. Weights are typical ranges; your design may need something different.
T-shirts and tops
Oversized / heavyweight t-shirt
Body and structure, so the boxy cut holds its shape and doesn't show through. 240–280 gsm.
- Recommended:
- Heavyweight jersey, Interlock
- Weight:
- 220–300 gsm
- Avoid:
- Cotton-elastane jersey, Single jersey, Viscose / modal jersey
Fitted t-shirt / crop top
Stretch and recovery so it follows the body, and opaque enough for light colours.
- Recommended:
- Cotton-elastane jersey, Rib knit, Viscose / modal jersey
- Weight:
- 160–260 gsm
- Avoid:
- Heavyweight jersey, Piqué
Polo shirt
A neat, breathable body fabric with a separate rib collar and cuffs.
- Recommended:
- Piqué, Single jersey, Interlock
- Weight:
- 180–240 gsm
- Avoid:
- Rib knit, Fleece (3-thread)
Long-sleeve / thermal top
A little heavier and warmer than a summer tee, still comfortable.
- Recommended:
- Single jersey, Heavyweight jersey, Waffle knit, Rib knit
- Weight:
- 180–280 gsm
- Avoid:
- Performance jersey (polyester)
Sweatshirts and joggers
Winter hoodie / sweatshirt
Thick and warm, usually brushed (fleecy) on the inside.
- Recommended:
- Fleece (3-thread), French terry (2-thread), Sherpa / plush fleece
- Weight:
- 300–450 gsm
- Avoid:
- Single jersey, Viscose / modal jersey, Scuba
Lightweight hoodie / sweatshirt
The sweatshirt look in a lighter, more breathable fabric for spring and summer.
- Recommended:
- French terry (2-thread), Fleece (3-thread), Waffle knit
- Weight:
- 220–320 gsm
- Avoid:
- Polar fleece, Sherpa / plush fleece
Joggers / sweatpants
Comfortable and durable, without bagging at the knees.
- Recommended:
- Fleece (3-thread), French terry (2-thread), Velour, Performance jersey (polyester)
- Weight:
- 260–400 gsm
- Avoid:
- Poplin, Chiffon / georgette
Activewear
Leggings / sports bra / bike shorts
Four-way stretch, compression and recovery, and no see-through when squatting.
- Recommended:
- Activewear stretch (nylon or polyester with elastane), Cotton-elastane jersey, Interlock
- Weight:
- 200–300 gsm
- Avoid:
- Single jersey, Heavyweight jersey
Sports t-shirt / jersey
Wicks sweat, dries fast and stays light.
- Recommended:
- Performance jersey (polyester), Mesh, Cotton-elastane jersey
- Weight:
- 120–180 gsm
- Avoid:
- Fleece (3-thread), Heavyweight jersey
Shirts
Classic / office shirt
Smooth, crisp after ironing and breathable.
- Recommended:
- Poplin, Oxford cloth
- Weight:
- 90–140 gsm
- Avoid:
- Chiffon / georgette, Viscose (rayon challis)
Casual / summer shirt
Relaxed and breathable, with a natural or printed look.
- Recommended:
- Linen, Linen blend, Viscose (rayon challis), Muslin / double gauze, Oxford cloth
- Weight:
- 100–200 gsm
- Avoid:
- Scuba, Fleece (3-thread)
Overshirt / shirt jacket
Heavier and structured, worn like a light jacket.
- Recommended:
- Cotton twill / gabardine, Corduroy, Denim, Canvas
- Weight:
- 220–400 gsm
- Avoid:
- Poplin, Chiffon / georgette
Trousers, jeans and shorts
Chinos / cargo / casual trousers
Sturdy and structured, sometimes with a little elastane for comfort.
- Recommended:
- Cotton twill / gabardine, Corduroy, Canvas
- Weight:
- 200–320 gsm
- Avoid:
- Single jersey, Chiffon / georgette
Tailored trousers
A smooth fabric that holds a crease, with balanced drape.
- Recommended:
- Suiting (poly-viscose, wool blends), Crepe, Bengaline
- Weight:
- 200–300 gsm
- Avoid:
- Single jersey, Denim
Wide-leg / flowy summer trousers
Light and drapey, so the leg moves when walking.
- Recommended:
- Linen blend, Viscose (rayon challis), Crepe, Linen
- Weight:
- 120–220 gsm
- Avoid:
- Canvas, Denim, Scuba
Jeans
Durable denim, rigid or stretch, suitable for the wash you want.
- Recommended:
- Denim
- Weight:
- 270–440 gsm
- Avoid:
- Cotton twill / gabardine
Casual shorts
Depends on the style: woven shorts hold their shape, knit shorts are relaxed.
- Recommended:
- Cotton twill / gabardine, French terry (2-thread), Linen blend, Denim
- Weight:
- 150–320 gsm
- Avoid:
- Chiffon / georgette
Dresses
Bodycon / fitted dress
Stretch and recovery, opaque, smooth over the body.
- Recommended:
- Scuba, Ponte (Milano / Punto di Roma), Rib knit, Cotton-elastane jersey
- Weight:
- 200–350 gsm
- Avoid:
- Chiffon / georgette, Poplin, Linen
Flowy / summer dress
Light, drapey and breathable.
- Recommended:
- Viscose (rayon challis), Crepe, Linen blend, Chiffon / georgette, Muslin / double gauze
- Weight:
- 60–160 gsm
- Avoid:
- Scuba, Ponte (Milano / Punto di Roma), Fleece (3-thread), Canvas
Shirt dress
Holds a collar and placket like a shirt, but falls softly as a dress.
- Recommended:
- Poplin, Linen, Linen blend, Viscose (rayon challis), Cotton twill / gabardine
- Weight:
- 100–200 gsm
- Avoid:
- Scuba, Rib knit
Jersey / t-shirt dress
Soft and comfortable, thick enough not to show through in light colours.
- Recommended:
- Heavyweight jersey, Interlock, Viscose / modal jersey, Rib knit
- Weight:
- 160–280 gsm
- Avoid:
- Chiffon / georgette, Canvas
Evening / slip dress
Sheen, drape or texture; usually lined, with careful finishing.
- Weight:
- 40–300 gsm
- Avoid:
- Single jersey, French terry (2-thread), Denim
Skirts
Pencil / fitted skirt
Structured and close to the body, without bagging when sitting.
- Recommended:
- Ponte (Milano / Punto di Roma), Scuba, Suiting (poly-viscose, wool blends), Bengaline, Denim
- Weight:
- 200–350 gsm
- Avoid:
- Chiffon / georgette, Viscose (rayon challis)
Pleated / midi / flowy skirt
Drapey; if pleated, a fabric that holds pleats (usually polyester).
- Recommended:
- Crepe, Satin, Viscose (rayon challis), Chiffon / georgette, Tulle
- Weight:
- 40–200 gsm
- Avoid:
- Canvas, Fleece (3-thread)
Jackets and outerwear
Blazer / jacket
Structured with a smooth surface; shaped with lining and interfacing.
- Recommended:
- Suiting (poly-viscose, wool blends), Ponte (Milano / Punto di Roma), Linen, Velvet, Corduroy
- Weight:
- 200–350 gsm
- Avoid:
- Single jersey, Chiffon / georgette
Coat / trench coat
Warm or wind-resistant, heavy and structured.
- Weight:
- 250–700 gsm
- Avoid:
- Single jersey, Chiffon / georgette
Jacket / parka / windbreaker
Protection from wind and rain; warmth from padding or lining.
- Recommended:
- Technical outerwear fabrics, Canvas, Cotton twill / gabardine, Denim, Polar fleece
- Weight:
- 80–400 gsm
- Avoid:
- Single jersey, Viscose (rayon challis)
Kidswear
Kids and baby basics
Very soft, breathable, durable in frequent washing, ideally certified.
- Recommended:
- Interlock, Single jersey, Muslin / double gauze, French terry (2-thread), Rib knit
- Weight:
- 140–280 gsm
- Avoid:
- Scuba, Chiffon / georgette
Loungewear
Pyjamas / loungewear
Very soft and comfortable, for summer or winter.
- Recommended:
- Viscose / modal jersey, Interlock, Waffle knit, Satin, Muslin / double gauze, Sherpa / plush fleece
- Weight:
- 100–300 gsm
- Avoid:
- Canvas, Denim
Fabric glossary
The fabric families we work with most, with typical weights and what each is best for.
Knits
Heavyweight jersey
Knit · 220–300 gsm · Slight stretch
Thick cotton single jersey with a firm, dense hand. The fabric behind most streetwear t-shirts.
Best for: Oversized and boxy t-shirts, heavy basics, long sleeves, t-shirt dresses.
Not ideal for: Fitted styles, light summer pieces, drapey dresses.
Cotton-elastane jersey
Knit · 160–250 gsm · Good stretch
Single jersey with elastane: follows the body, stretches and springs back.
Best for: Fitted t-shirts, crop tops, bodysuits, fitted jersey dresses.
Not ideal for: Oversized tees (elastane spoils the boxy drape), heavy sweatshirts.
Viscose / modal jersey
Knit · 140–200 gsm · Good stretch
A very soft, cool and drapey knit.
Best for: Drapey tees and tops, jersey dresses, pyjamas, underwear.
Not ideal for: Structured styles, large heavy prints.
Performance jersey (polyester)
Knit · 120–180 gsm · Good stretch
A polyester knit that wicks sweat and dries fast.
Best for: Sports tees, running tops, team jerseys, training shorts.
Not ideal for: Everyday pieces where a cotton feel is wanted.
Single jersey
Knit · 130–200 gsm · Slight stretch
The classic t-shirt fabric: soft and breathable, smooth on the face and looped on the back.
Best for: Basic and regular t-shirts, kids' tees, bodysuits, pyjama tops, linings.
Not ideal for: Structured styles; fitted styles without elastane.
Rib knit
Knit · 180–320 gsm · Good stretch
A ribbed knit (1x1, 2x2) that stretches a lot across the width and springs back.
Best for: Collars, cuffs and hems; fitted tops, crop tops, bodycon dresses.
Not ideal for: Structured or wide styles; large prints (the ribs break them up).
Interlock
Knit · 180–260 gsm · Slight stretch
A double knit, smooth on both sides: thicker than single jersey, doesn't curl and feels substantial.
Best for: Kids' and baby wear, premium tees, t-shirt dresses, pyjamas.
Not ideal for: Very light summer pieces, heavy winter pieces.
Ponte (Milano / Punto di Roma)
Knit · 260–380 gsm · Good stretch
A thick, firm double knit: it stretches but holds its shape like a woven.
Best for: Pencil skirts, fitted dresses, women's trousers, knit blazers.
Not ideal for: Summer pieces that need to breathe; t-shirts.
Piqué
Knit · 180–240 gsm · Slight stretch
A knit with a honeycomb texture: breathable and neat.
Best for: Polo shirts, summer sports tops, uniforms.
Not ideal for: Drapey styles, large prints.
Fleece (3-thread)
Knit · 280–450 gsm · Slight stretch
Thick sweatshirt fabric, usually brushed and fluffy on the inside, warm. Also made unbrushed.
Best for: Winter hoodies and sweatshirts, sweatpants, oversized sweats.
Not ideal for: Summer pieces, light and drapey styles.
French terry (2-thread)
Knit · 220–320 gsm · Slight stretch
Smooth on the face with loops on the back (unbrushed): the lighter sweatshirt fabric.
Best for: Spring and summer sweatshirts and hoodies, joggers, shorts, kids' sets.
Not ideal for: Winter pieces (not warm enough), fitted styles.
Waffle knit
Knit · 180–300 gsm · Slight stretch
A knit with a square, waffle-like texture: relaxed and textured.
Best for: Thermal long sleeves, loungewear, relaxed sets.
Not ideal for: Print-led pieces, formal wear.
Scuba
Knit · 250–380 gsm · High stretch (4-way)
A thick, smooth knit with elastane that holds its shape.
Best for: Bodycon and structured dresses, pencil skirts, sculpted shapes.
Not ideal for: Summer pieces that need to breathe; a cotton feel.
Polar fleece
Knit · 180–350 gsm · Slight stretch
A light, warm polyester knit, fluffy on both sides.
Best for: Fleece jackets and vests, mid-layers, kids' winter pieces, linings.
Not ideal for: Pieces where a cotton feel is wanted, printed fashion pieces.
Sherpa / plush fleece
Knit · 200–350 gsm · Slight stretch
A long-pile, very soft and warm polyester knit.
Best for: Winter pyjamas, robes, kids' onesies; hood and jacket linings.
Not ideal for: Summer pieces, fitted styles.
Velour
Knit · 250–350 gsm · Slight stretch
A knit with a short, soft pile and a slight sheen.
Best for: Tracksuits, loungewear, kids' sets.
Not ideal for: Summer pieces.
Activewear stretch (nylon or polyester with elastane)
Knit · 180–300 gsm · High stretch (4-way)
A high-elastane, compressive fabric with four-way stretch.
Best for: Leggings, sports bras, bike shorts, yoga and gym tops; chlorine-resistant qualities for swimwear.
Not ideal for: Loose everyday pieces.
Mesh
Knit · 80–180 gsm · Slight stretch
An open, perforated knit for ventilation and linings.
Best for: Ventilation panels and linings in sportswear, team jerseys.
Not ideal for: Pieces worn on their own without lining.
Knit jacquard
Knit · 200–350 gsm · Slight stretch
A knit with the pattern knitted in.
Best for: Patterned dresses, skirts, knit jackets, sweatshirts.
Not ideal for: Simple, plain, price-led pieces.
Knitwear (flat knit)
Knit · Chosen by yarn and gauge, not weight · Good stretch
Not bought as fabric: each piece is knitted to shape on a flat knitting machine. Yarn and gauge are chosen instead of weight.
Best for: Sweaters, cardigans, knit dresses, knit polos, beanies.
Not ideal for: Garments meant to be cut and sewn from fabric.
Wovens
Poplin
Woven · 90–140 gsm · No stretch
A fine, tight plain weave: smooth, slightly lustrous and crisp after ironing.
Best for: Classic shirts, shirt dresses, blouses, kids' shirts, linings.
Not ideal for: Fitted styles that need stretch (without elastane), heavy outerwear.
Oxford cloth
Woven · 120–180 gsm · No stretch
A basket weave shirting, heavier and more textured than poplin.
Best for: Casual shirts, button-down shirts.
Not ideal for: Drapey blouses, evening wear.
Denim
Woven · 270–480 gsm · No stretch
A twill with indigo-dyed warp, rigid or stretch. Weight is usually given in ounces: 8–14 oz is about 270–480 gsm.
Best for: Jeans, shorts, jackets, skirts, overalls; light denim and chambray for shirts.
Not ideal for: Drapey, light styles (except light denim).
Corduroy
Woven · 250–400 gsm · No stretch
A cotton weave with raised vertical ribs (wales).
Best for: Trousers, overshirts, jackets, skirts, kids' trousers.
Not ideal for: Summer pieces.
Cotton twill / gabardine
Woven · 200–320 gsm · No stretch
A sturdy, structured weave with a diagonal line.
Best for: Chinos and cargo trousers, shorts, overshirts, trench coats, workwear, skirts.
Not ideal for: Drapey dresses, flowy summer pieces.
Canvas
Woven · 280–450 gsm · No stretch
A thick, tight plain weave, very durable.
Best for: Workwear jackets, bags, aprons, heavy trousers.
Not ideal for: Soft everyday pieces, dresses.
Linen blend
Woven · 140–220 gsm · No stretch
Linen with viscose or cotton: the linen look at a lower price, with fewer creases and a softer drape.
Best for: Summer dresses, wide trousers, shirts, co-ord sets.
Not ideal for: Structured jackets.
Linen
Woven · 140–250 gsm · No stretch
Made from flax: cool to wear, naturally textured, and it creases a lot.
Best for: Summer shirts, trousers, dresses, suits, shorts.
Not ideal for: Pieces that must not crease, fitted styles.
Viscose (rayon challis)
Woven · 100–150 gsm · No stretch
A light, soft and very drapey weave, often used for printed fabrics.
Best for: Summer dresses, blouses, wide trousers, skirts, pyjamas.
Not ideal for: Structured styles.
Crepe
Woven · 120–220 gsm · Slight stretch
A drapey weave with a slightly grainy surface that creases little.
Best for: Blouses, dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpsuits, evening wear.
Not ideal for: Sportswear and casual cotton pieces.
Chiffon / georgette
Woven · 40–90 gsm · No stretch
A very fine, sheer and floaty weave.
Best for: Flowy dresses and blouses (lined), overlays on evening wear, scarves.
Not ideal for: Unlined everyday pieces, fitted styles.
Satin
Woven · 80–160 gsm · No stretch
A weave with a glossy, smooth face.
Best for: Slip dresses, evening wear, blouses, pyjamas, skirts, linings.
Not ideal for: Everyday pieces that need to be hard-wearing.
Velvet
Woven · 200–350 gsm · No stretch
A weave with a short, dense pile and deep colour.
Best for: Evening wear, blazers, skirts, winter dresses.
Not ideal for: Summer pieces and items washed often.
Muslin / double gauze
Woven · 90–150 gsm · No stretch
A loosely woven, usually double-layer cotton with a soft, crinkled look.
Best for: Baby and kids' wear, summer shirts, beach dresses, pyjamas.
Not ideal for: Structured styles.
Bengaline
Woven · 200–300 gsm · Good stretch
A stretch weave with fine ribs that stretches across the width.
Best for: Women's trousers (slim and flared), pull-on trousers, skirts.
Not ideal for: Men's tailored trousers, shirts.
Suiting (poly-viscose, wool blends)
Woven · 200–320 gsm · Slight stretch
A firm, smooth weave for suits and tailored trousers.
Best for: Blazers, suits, tailored trousers, waistcoats, skirts.
Not ideal for: Casual sportswear.
Wool coating (melton)
Woven · 400–700 gsm · No stretch
A thick coating fabric with a felted surface.
Best for: Coats, overcoats, heavy jackets, winter skirts.
Not ideal for: Inner layers, summer pieces.
Technical outerwear fabrics
Woven · 80–320 gsm · Slight stretch
Coated or membrane fabrics (taslan, softshell, water-repellent) that protect from wind and rain.
Best for: Jackets, parkas, raincoats, windbreakers, softshell jackets.
Not ideal for: Everyday inner pieces where a cotton feel is wanted.
Other fabrics
Lace
Other · 60–200 gsm · Slight stretch
An open, patterned decorative fabric.
Best for: Evening dresses, lingerie, blouse details, evening-wear details.
Not ideal for: Unlined everyday pieces.
Tulle
Other · 20–60 gsm · Slight stretch
A very light, sheer net fabric.
Best for: Full skirts, evening-wear overlays, girls' party dresses.
Not ideal for: Single-layer everyday pieces.
Faux leather (PU)
Other · 250–500 gsm · Slight stretch
A polyurethane coating on a knit or woven base.
Best for: Jackets, skirts, trousers, trims and details.
Not ideal for: Pieces that need to breathe.
Frequently asked questions
What does gsm mean?+
Grams per square metre: the weight of the fabric. Higher gsm usually means a thicker, more substantial fabric. For a t-shirt, 140–160 gsm feels light, 180–200 gsm is a solid everyday weight and 240 gsm and up is heavyweight.
What is the difference between knit and woven fabrics?+
Knits are made of interlocking loops, so they stretch and feel soft (t-shirts, hoodies, leggings). Wovens are made of threads crossing at right angles, so they hold their shape and only stretch if elastane is added (shirts, jeans, trousers).
Should I choose 100% cotton or a blend?+
100% cotton feels natural and breathes well. A little elastane adds stretch and recovery; polyester in a blend reduces shrinking and creasing and lowers the price. The right choice depends on the garment and how it will be worn and washed.
Can you match the fabric of a garment I already have?+
Yes. Send us the garment or clear photos with its care label. The label tells us the composition, and we can check the weight and construction from the garment itself, then suggest the closest fabrics.
Can I send my own fabric?+
Yes, that is no problem at all. Tell us the fabric and quantity and we'll plan the cutting and production around it.
How do I choose the final fabric?+
Narrow it down with this guide, then decide on a physical swatch or a sample. Feel, drape and colour are hard to judge on screen, so the final choice is always best made in hand.
Not sure which fabric fits your design?
Send us your design, a photo or a reference garment and we'll suggest fabric options for it.